We present a nonlinear multiscale modeling and simulation framework for the mechanical design of machine-knitted textiles with functionally graded microstructures. The framework operates on the mesoscale (stitch level), where yarns intermesh into stitch patterns, and the macroscale (fabric level), where these repetitive stitch patterns are composed into a fabric. On the mesoscale, representative unit cells consisting of single interlocked yarn loops, modeled as geometrically exact, nonlinear elastic 3D beams, are homogenized to compute their effective mechanical properties. From this data, a B-Spline response surface model is generated to represent the nonlinear orthotropic constitutive behavior on the macroscale, where the fabric is modeled by a nonlinear Kirchhoff–Love shell formulation and discretized using isogeometric finite elements. These functionally graded textiles with locally varying properties can be designed and analyzed by parameterizing the stitch value, i.e., the loop length of a single jersey stitch, and the knitting direction as mesoscopic design variables of the macroscopic response surface constitutive model. To validate the multiscale simulation and design approach, numerical results are compared against physical experiments of different tensile loading cases for various grading scenarios. Furthermore, the versatility of the method for the design of functionally graded textiles is demonstrated.

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Machine knitting, Technical textiles, Nonlinear multiscale simulation, Isogeometric analysis, Functionally graded structures